You can't really rely on any one system to bank. What I'm about to describe is kind of a system, but not in the traditional sense—more of a loose guideline that needs to be filled in with experience. Every bank shot is an equation to solve: distance to pocket - ideal mirror bank point = your necessary adjustment.
So if the pocket is 2 diamonds up, but then you need to make a +1 diamond adjustment. There are many blends of cut, speed and spin that can get you there. A firm stop shot with outside draw should do it, or a medium speed 3/4 cut shot with just outside, or even a pocket speed centerball half ball hit. If you had to make a -1 adjustment and shorten the bank, you could use inside spin, follow, extra speed or any blend thereof to satisfy the necessary adjustment. If you needed to go +/-2 diamonds, then the same principles apply but you just need more of each factor. It takes a little practice to get a feel for the amount of speed/spin/angle it takes to add or subtract diamonds from a bank shot, but it's doable and definitely a worthwhile use of table time. My general process is: look where it'd go if I hit it dead straight, compare it to the pocket, pick the combination of speed/cut/spin that makes the ball with the best chance at position, and shoot it as best I can.
Would highly recommend. Very colorful book. CJ Wiley has an interesting banking system that works very well, I'll do my best to explain.
Byrne's New Standard Book of Pool. We'll send you a link to download the free Kindle App. The 99 Critical Shots in Pool ' and with its simple. The 99 Critical Shots in Pool: Everything You Need to Know to Learn and Master the Game Martin, Ray. Thirtieth anniversary edition out in 2007. World Champion Pool Player Ray 'Cool Cat' Martin shares his secrets for playing winner's pool in this classic book, now with a new introduction by the author.
You line up the bank as if it were straight in and determine whether it would come up long or short. Let's say this bank would go long by one diamond. You then apply one tip of inside english, stroke it smooth at medium speed, and it straightens out and goes it. If it would be long by 2 diamonds, use two tips.
If it would be short, then use outside. To determine what a 'tip' of spin is, place a ball on the foot spot, one a diamon below and one a diamond above.
Shoot the ball one diamond below the side pocket straight into the rail whatever amount of spin that it takes to spin it into the side is one 'tip' repeat for 2 and 3 diamonds. Speed will alter this.
Now the thing is, you have to be able to accurately judge where the bank would have gone before adjusting. And you have to calibrate how much spin produces what result. Once you have that down however, you will have better cueball control on all shots using side, and you will understand how side effects banks, which makes banking much easier, at least for me. I don't know if that makes any sense, but it does work very well. I think you can buy a video explaining it off of his site. Banking balls is difficult since there are so many factors. First every table and every rail can play different.
Depending on the humidity in the room the rails can play different. The mirror system is probably the easiest to get you in the ball park. What makes banking difficult to get used to is how English and speed can affect the bank shot. Hitting low will cause the bank to go long. Hitting high will shorten the bank.
Hitting outside english will make the bank go long. Hitting inside English will shorten the bank. Hitting the ball slow will lengthen the bank. Hitting the ball hard will shorten the bank. Trying to figure out the right mix of English, top, center, bottom and speed is hard to out down in a system. You just need to practice and see what each does on a bank.
If you ever watch a banks match you'll notice that those guys normally are firing the banks in. Not always practical when playing other games where you need to get shape. The thing that improved my banking was Freddy the Beards Banking with the beard video and playing one pocket. I love using systems but being honest, no system is gonna be super reliable for banking except in very limited circumstances (like you can hit firmly, it happens to be lying on a 'track' that the system uses, it's not a back cut, and you don't really need to do much for position). Learning other systems can't really fix this, all systems have this lack of reliability because the rubber in the rails doesn't react in a simple, linear way.
When the ball hits the rubber, it compresses and sort of 'cups' the ball for a split second. So now the ball is rebounding off this curved surface and not off a perfectly flat surface, like a beam of light reflecting from a mirror. This cupping effect makes most banks come a little short of the perfect mirror angle, and balls coming into the rail at a shallow angle get less cupping, balls hit firmly get more, etc. On the tables I grew up with, the rails were pretty lively, and this somewhat negated the 'bite' that made banks fall short of the mirror angle. A smidge of outside english would reliably send the ball on the mirror angle and this made systematic banking very easy. If you needed to go into a pocket about 3 diamonds up from the cue ball, you'd hit the opposite rail about 1.5 diamonds up from the CB and a little outside english, and just medium speed.
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