Jan 12, 2018 - Ellis 1600 Dual Mitering Head Bandsaw Part Ell Ships From Our. Carolina Hd10 Bandsaw Instruction Parts Manual Galost -> Source. CAROLINA TOOL a EOUIPREENT eOREE. Coolant, Assembly. Rotating I,he bolt so i/hat, i,he band saw fits. Lubricate the following parts using SAE-30. Fietrack blade per instructions.
Bigger job than I anticipated!) and I have come to the conclusion that one of the support arms, which is clearly non-original on my saw, may be the wrong size. The saw frame does not sit at a true 45 degree angle to the table (looking from the end) and it appears that it would complete the cut better if the high side of the frame were up a little higher. I would like to confirm the measurment by checking another saw of the same model, but I don't know anyone who has one for me to measure. I called the parts suppler for these saws--American Fabricators/Ramco--and they were not able to get the measurment for me. If someone would be willing to check it for me, the part I am referring to is the longer of the two support arms that the saw pivots on. It is right between the motor and the hydraulic cylinder.
On my saw it is 12' long (about 10' between pivot center and adjustment bolts center). I think it may be an inch too short. You can see a picture at. On 7 Apr 2004 07:12:16 -0700, snipped-for-privacy@buncombe.main.nc.us (Harry McDaniel) wrote: Quoted Text Here My saw agrees with the other poster at 10 5/16' center to center. I measure about 43deg angle with the table on the square tube at the top of the saw. However your saw may be suffering from what mine was based on what I see in the photo. My saw had the pivot bushings in the base wrong.
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It would track pretty far off from 90deg to the table. The way to check this is put a framing square on the table (use whatever surface you plan on using for getting the stock flat on for a reference since these saws don't have a perfectly flat table). Push it against the blade and then hold it there. Then raise the saw and see if it either binds or moves away from the blade. If it moved away that will be the amount of angle on the cuts made with the saw.
If it binds then reset the square against the blade with it up (you'll only be able to go about half way up doing this). Then lower the blade and see how much it's off. If it was like mine you have close to 1/4-3/8' out in 10-12' of travel. The cure for this is to take the arm you're talking about off and then cut the bushing loose from the base. Then notch the hole in the direction you need to go and tack it in place.
Check for square travel and adjust as needed. Once set you weld the bushing back.
Wayne Cook Shamrock, TX http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook. Thanks for the measurements and ideas Wayne and John. Since you both said the arm measures 10 5/16' hole-to-hole, that must be the correct size (unless my saw is not really a HD10 and the other models use a different size arm). Mine is a tiny bit shorter--10' +/- 1/16', but that difference does not explain the problems I am having with alignment. The alignment issue that you corrected on your saw, Wayne, does not seem to be a problem on mine.
My blade follows a square nicely as I raise and lower the saw head. Here are the symptoms that led me to think that the arm was too short, perhaps someone else can see another explanation: 1--With my saw adjusted to the best of my understanding, the blade does not complete the cut (pass beyond the plane of the saw bed) unless I set the saw head to pivot beyond the horizontal position AND/OR I set the lower blade guide at an angle (by tilting it in it's adjustment slots on the saw frame) to force the blade to make a little deeper cut. When I bought the saw, it was set so that the head was angled down at the end of the cut (i.e. The main square tube of the frame was not parallel with the floor; the motor end was higher than the other end). It invent s klyuchom in hindi. This did not look right to me. All of the Carolina (and Ramco) Bandsaws that I have seen in pictures seem to end the cut with the square tube parallel to the floor, so I made adjustments in the blade guides until it could almost complete the cut 'properly'. Am I off track with this idea?